- First-hand where we say so — we name the places we’ve actually stayed
- No invented prices, no made-up restaurants, no AI filler
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Tokyo is the largest city on earth and the most navigable, which is a contradiction that takes about two days to resolve in your head. Nothing is where you expect it, everything works perfectly, and the anxiety most first-time visitors feel dissolves the moment they realise the system is designed to be used by people who don't speak the language.
How Tokyo is actually organised
Tokyo isn't a city with a centre — it's a collection of districts, each built around a major train station, each with a distinct character. Understanding this is the key that makes the city navigable. You don't visit Tokyo; you visit Shibuya, then Shinjuku, then Asakusa, and the train moves you between them.
- Shinjuku — the busiest station in the world, neon, department stores, Golden Gai's tiny bars, and the government building's free observation deck.
- Shibuya — the famous crossing, youth fashion, and a dense concentration of restaurants and bars.
- Asakusa — old Tokyo. Senso-ji temple, traditional shopping streets, the closest thing to pre-war Tokyo that survives.
- Ginza — luxury retail, serious restaurants, and Tokyo's most elegant streets.
- Akihabara — electronics, anime, arcades, and the most concentrated version of the Tokyo people picture.
- Shimokitazawa and Kichijoji — the neighbourhoods where residents actually spend weekends. Vintage shops, small bars, no skyscrapers.
Where to stay
Stay near a station on the Yamanote line, the loop that connects most of what you'll want to see. Shinjuku and Shibuya put you in the middle of the energy. Ueno and Asakusa are quieter and cheaper with excellent transport. Ginza and Tokyo Station are convenient and more expensive.
Japanese hotel rooms are small by international standards and impeccably efficient. Business hotels are excellent value. Capsule hotels are a genuine experience and considerably more comfortable than they sound.
Getting around
The train system is the best in the world and it is not as complicated as the map suggests. Get an IC card (Suica or Pasmo) at the airport, tap in and out, and stop thinking about it. Google Maps handles Tokyo transit better than almost anywhere, including which carriage to board for the fastest exit.
Trains stop around midnight and restart around 5am. This matters more than people expect — missing the last train means a taxi at Tokyo prices or waiting until dawn, which is why the all-night bar and karaoke culture exists.
Where to eat
Tokyo has more restaurants than any city on earth and more Michelin stars than any other. But the everyday eating is the real story: the standing soba bar in a station, the ramen counter with a ticket machine, the conveyor sushi, the department store food hall in the basement.
- Ticket machine restaurants — buy a ticket from the vending machine at the entrance, hand it to the cook. No language required, very fast, consistently good.
- Depachika — department store basement food halls. Extraordinary quality, endless variety, and heavily discounted in the last hour before closing.
- Convenience stores — genuinely good food, not a compromise. Onigiri, sandwiches, hot items. This is normal, not slumming it.
- Izakaya — the Japanese pub. Small plates, drinks, informal. The best way to eat a variety in one sitting.
- Standing bars and counters — cheaper, faster, and where solo diners are entirely normal.
The etiquette that actually matters
- Don't eat while walking. Eat where you bought it, or wait.
- Be quiet on trains. Phone calls are not made on trains. This is observed universally.
- Cash still matters in small restaurants and shops, though cards are increasingly accepted.
- No tipping. Ever, anywhere. It causes confusion rather than pleasure.
- Queue properly. Marked positions on platforms, orderly lines everywhere. Following it is easy and appreciated.
When to go
Late March to early April for cherry blossom — spectacular and fully priced in. Late April to May is warm and pleasant without the premium. October and November are arguably the best: mild, dry, and autumn colour. Summer is hot and very humid. Winter is cold, clear and quiet.
Slow travel in Tokyo
Tokyo is a city where three days shows you the highlights and three weeks shows you the city. Here is the case for staying.
If this is your first visit
- Stay near a station on the Yamanote line
- Get an IC card at the airport and stop thinking about tickets
- Pick two or three districts per day rather than criss-crossing the city
- Know the last train time before you go out
- Carry some cash — small restaurants still prefer it
Tokyo is far easier than it looks. The system is built to be used by people who do not speak the language.
What things actually cost there
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