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Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, and the Spanish built their colonial city directly on top of it — which is why so many walls here are Inca stonework below and baroque above. At 3,400 metres in the Andes, it is the base for Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, and a remarkable place in its own right.
Why it's worth the flight
It's the most complete surviving expression of two civilisations layered on each other, and the surrounding Sacred Valley holds ruins, markets and villages that many visitors end up preferring to Machu Picchu itself. The Andean setting is spectacular.
When to go
May to September is the dry season — clear skies, cold nights, and the only sensible window for trekking. The wet season from November to March brings daily rain, and the Inca Trail closes entirely in February for maintenance. Shoulder months of April and October are a good compromise.
Where to base yourself
- Historic centre — around the Plaza de Armas. Everything walkable, most atmospheric, busiest.
- San Blas — the artisan quarter up the hill. Steep, charming, quieter, better views.
- The Sacred Valley (Urubamba, Ollantaytambo) — a thousand metres lower, which genuinely helps with altitude, and closer to the train.
What to eat
Lomo saltado, the Chinese-Peruvian stir-fry that defines the country's fusion cooking. Ceviche — better on the coast, but good here. Cuy, guinea pig, if you want the genuinely traditional Andean dish. Papa a la huancaína. And coca tea, which is offered everywhere and does help with the altitude.
Getting around
The centre is walkable but steep and thin on oxygen — take it slowly. Taxis are cheap and everywhere; agree the fare first. For Machu Picchu, the route is Cusco to Ollantaytambo by road, then train to Aguas Calientes, then bus or a steep walk up. Train tickets and entry permits both sell out — book weeks ahead in high season.
Machu Picchu is a booking problem, not a travel problem
Entry is capped, timed, and routed. Understanding the ticket system before you book is what determines whether the trip works.
Don't miss
- Sacsayhuamán — the enormous Inca fortress above the city, with stonework that defies explanation.
- The Sacred Valley — Pisac's market and ruins, Ollantaytambo's terraces, Moray and the Maras salt pans.
- Qorikancha — the Inca sun temple with a Spanish convent built on top of it.
- San Pedro Market for food and produce.
- Machu Picchu, obviously — but give the valley equal time.
The honest caveat
Altitude is the main risk and it affects fit people unpredictably. Cusco is also heavily geared toward tourism, with persistent street selling around the plaza. And Machu Picchu now operates on strict timed circuits with capacity limits — the free-roaming visit people imagine no longer exists.
What things actually cost there
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