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Oaxaca is where Mexicans go to eat. A colonial city in a high southern valley, surrounded by indigenous villages that have been making the same textiles, pottery and food for centuries, it has a culinary tradition deep enough that UNESCO recognised Mexican cuisine largely on its account.
Why it's worth the flight
The food, without qualification. Seven distinct moles, a mezcal culture that predates the tequila industry, markets that function as they have for generations, and street food that is genuinely among the best in the world. Add colonial architecture, nearby ruins and living craft villages, and it's one of Latin America's most complete destinations.
When to go
Oaxaca sits at altitude, so it's temperate year round. October to April is dry. The rainy season brings afternoon showers and a green valley. Two dates matter enormously: Día de Muertos around 31 October to 2 November, which is extraordinary here and books out a year ahead, and Guelaguetza in July, the great indigenous festival.
Where to base yourself
The Centro Histórico is where nearly everyone stays and it's the right call — walkable, beautiful, and everything is within a few blocks. Jalatlaco and Xochimilco are quieter cobbled neighbourhoods a short walk out, with more character and better value.
What to eat
Mole — negro, coloradito, amarillo and the rest, each a different dish entirely. Tlayudas, the enormous crisp tortilla, from a street griddle at night. Memelas for breakfast. Chapulines, toasted grasshoppers, which are genuinely good. Quesillo, the string cheese. And the markets — Mercado 20 de Noviembre's smoke hall is a required experience.
Getting around
The centre is walkable. Colectivos and buses reach the surrounding villages cheaply. For the ruins and craft villages, a shared or private day tour saves considerable time. Ride-hailing coverage has been contested locally, so ask at your accommodation about the current situation.
The market is the whole point
Our method for eating a market properly — lap first, buy from specialists, assemble rather than order — was built for places like this.
Don't miss
- Monte Albán — the Zapotec city on a flattened mountaintop above the valley.
- Mercado 20 de Noviembre and the Benito Juárez market next door.
- Hierve el Agua — petrified mineral waterfalls and pools, with a valley view.
- The craft villages — Teotitlán for rugs, San Bartolo for black pottery.
- A mezcal palenque in the valley, seeing it made.
The honest caveat
Oaxaca is at 1,550 metres, so evenings are cool year round — people pack for tropical Mexico and get it wrong. Teachers' union protests occasionally close roads and the zócalo, which is a normal part of life here rather than a crisis. And Día de Muertos, while remarkable, is now heavily touristed.
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